NORTH CAROLINA:
The Graveyard of the Atlantic and other geographic wonders
GEOGRAPHY
Mother Nature has cooperated to provide near-perfect conditions for a diving experience unlike anything else in the world. The warm Gulf Stream flows closer to the North Carolina coast than anywhere else in the east, except for the tip of Florida. The result is abnormally warm and clear water. Add to this mix more than 2,000 natural wrecks and just thank Mother Nature and the diving gods and goddesses.
Originally published in Dive Geo
The Gulf Stream provides Caribbean-like conditions, with tropical water and marine life, but the wrecks are what make North Carolina so interesting. Abnormally shallow shoals along the coast have contributed to the large number of wrecks along the Atlantic's bottom, along with wars, weather, and wary seamanship.
On land, the coastline looks a bit like the Atlantic Ocean has taken big bites out of it. More than enough is left to make for great land-based exploration of isolated beaches and marshes. Check out Cape Lookout National Seashore, with lonely stretches of sand reached only by boat. Up north, head for Jockey's Ridge State Park, a 408-acre park featuring the largest natural sand dune (about 140 feet) on the east coast and a great place to try hang-gliding.
Further inland, the rest of North Carolina offers a geographical mixture that's almost as interesting the underwater landscape. From the Atlantic coastline to the Great Smoky Mountains, North Carolina offers landscapes to suit the landlubber in any diver.
In the center of the state, the sandhills area is a stark contrast to the Atlantic and the Smokies. The low elevation and protection of the mountains have combined to create an unusually moderate climate. . .ideal for golf (there are more than four hundred courses, including the legendary Pinehurst Resort and Country Club).
Finally, the mountains of North Carolina beckon. The Appalachian Mountains form a barrier between east and west from New England to the south. The best way to see much of North Carolina's mountains is along the Blue Ridge Parkway. This mountaintop drive, averaging an elevation of 3,000 feet, features incredible views and great exploration opportunities.
The Great Smoky Mountains National Park is America's most popular national park. With more than 500,000 beautiful acres for outdoors activities, it's easy to see why.
DIVING
"Warm and tropical waters sown with hundreds of natural shipwrecks make this part of underwater America one of the finest for recreational diving," says Rod Farb in his excellent book, Guide to Shipwreck Diving: North Carolina (Pisces Books, Gulf Publishing, P.O. Box 2608, Houston, TX 77252-2608, 713/529-4301 or 800/231-6275).
The dive season along the coast of North Carolina usually lasts from May to October or November. Visibility generally averages between 40 feet to over 100 feet. The average temperature is usually in the upper-70s and often reaches into the 80s. The wrecks range in depth from about 25 feet to more than 170 feet, but most of the popular dives are between 80 feet and 125 feet.
The variety of wrecks is what keeps bringing back divers. Wrecks date from the Spanish fleets of the 1500s through current times. Civil War ships, merchant marine boats from two centuries, wrecks from both world wars, commercial shipping casualties, fishing vessels, and much more await adventurous divers. The area truly deserves the nickname, "Graveyard of the Atlantic."
With dozens of dives from which to choose, there are definitely some favorites among local divers. But there's enough to keep curious divers busy for many trips.
One of the closer, more shallow wrecks provides a perfect introduction to North Carolina diving. Two popular introductory choices are the W.E. Hutton and the Suloide. The W.E. Hutton was a freighter sunk by a German U-boat in 1942 in 70 feet of water just 14 miles south of Morehead City. The Suloide struck the wreck of the W.E. Hutton in 1943 and sank about a mile away at 65 feet. Both wrecks offer lots of colorful marine life.
The deeper shipwrecks offshore remain the main reason for heading to North Carolina. Some popular picks include U-352, HMS Bedfordshire, the U.S.S. Schurz, and the Papoose.
The U-352 is perhaps the most famous dive site north of the Florida Keys. This German submarine was sunk by the U.S. Coast Guard cutter, Icarus, in 1942. It now lies at 115 feet only 26 miles south of Morehead City and offers much to see in a small space. Though coral life is limited, the submarine remains are of continuing interest. It is the only U-boat off the coast of the U.S. generally available to sport divers.
Just two days after the U-352 was sunk by the Icarus, the Bedfordshire (an armed trawler) was sunk with a single torpedo by another German U-boat. The wreck is in several interesting sections, with lots of tropical marine life and several unexploded depth charges to be avoided.
The Schurz was originally a German warship before being interred by the U.S. in 1917. It was accidentally rammed by a tanker in 1918 and lies in 110 feet of water 28 miles south of Morehead City. The wreck is strung along the sand, with lots of artifacts and much marine life.
The tanker Papoose was torpedoed by a German U-boat in 1942 and lies upside down at 130 feet. Entry into the hull is possible through several wide openings and marine life throughout is fascinating. Just a quarter-mile away, the Ella Pierce Thurlow sits in 125 feet of water and provides an interesting view of a four-masted schooner sunk by a storm.
There are many other diving opportunities all along North Carolina's coast. In the colder waters of the north, the most popular destination off Nag's Head is the U-85. Between Cape Hatteras and Cape Lookout, check out the Proteus and the U.S.S. Tarpon. In the Cape Fear area, the dives of choice include the Normannia, the City of Houston, and the Cassimir.
TOPSIDE ATTRACTIONS
The Morehead City area serves as the heart and logistical soul of North Carolina diving. The coastline towns provide ideal access to many of the best dive sites. "This area is the perfect base to explore 'The Graveyard of the Atlantic,'" says Debby Boyce owner of Discovery Diving in Beaufort, a quaint waterfront community.
The Olympus Dive Center and Discovery Diving are the companies to contact for great diving, lodging recommendations or packages, dining ideas, and the many local sightseeing options for surface intervals. Contact the Olympus Dive Center at 713 Shepard St., Morehead City, NC 28557, 919/726-9432 or 919/726-2594. Contact Discovery Diving at 414 Orange Street, Beaufort, NC 28516, 919/728-2265.
North Carolina's Crystal Coast has lots of accommodations possibilities. Some of the best include: Sheraton Atlantic Beach Resort (800/624-8875); Langdon House B&B (919/728-5499); the Best Western Buccaneer Motor Inn (800/682-4932 or 919/726-3115); or one of many unique villa or condominium possibilities with Ocean Resorts (800/682-3702 or 919/247-3600), which are great for groups of divers or families.
There's great seafood in the area, with local restaurant recommendations including: the legendary Sanitary Fish Market & Restaurant (919/247-3111); Turtle Reef Restaurant & Marina (919/726-1300); and Clawson's 1905 Restaurant (919/728-2133).
For off-days from diving, there's lots to see and do. One of the most interesting outings for divers is the North Carolina Aquarium (919/247-4003), located at Pine Knoll Shores. This public aquarium serves as a focus for public information, education, research, and advisory services. The facility features many exhibits, a touch tank, and an underwater shipwreck tank that is a favorite of young and older salts.
Another popular stop is the North Carolina Maritime Museum (919/728-7317), located on Front Street in Beaufort. This museum interprets North Carolina's many-faceted historical alliances with the sea. Exhibits commemorate both maritime history and the coast natural history, as well as an impressive collection of ship models. The rest of historic Beaufort is great for walking and whiling away some surface time.
With so much to see above and below sea level, the North Carolina coast should be part of every diver's dreams. "The Graveyard of the Atlantic" and the rest of North Carolina is certainly a heavenly haven for divers.
FACTS AND FIGURES
Location: The Morehead City area is situated on the Atlantic Ocean along North Carolina's Crystal Coast.
Climate: Crystal Coast weather features sunshine during about two-thirds of the daylight hours in late-spring and summer and about half the time in winter. The average annual temperature is 64 degrees fahrenheit, with the warmest temperatures averaging 80 degrees fahrenheit in July and the coldest temperatures averaging 46 degrees in January. July is the wettest month, averaging 8.31 inches and the driest month is April, averaging just 1.65 inches.
A wet suit is generally not required, but many people wear them.
Time: The area is on Eastern Standard Time.
Getting There: Many visitors drive to the area. Several plane possibilities are available: Raleigh-Durham International Airport is 3 1/2 hours away and is served by most major and several feeder carriers. The New Bern Airport, only 30 miles from Morehead City, is served by USAir and American Eagle. These two airlines also serve the Jacksonville Airport (50 miles from Morehead City). In addition, the Kinston Airport (75 miles from Morehead City) is served by USAir.
Who to call: You can contact the diving operations and hotels directly (see article). For information about the area, contact: Carteret County Tourism Development Bureau, P.O. Box 1406, Morehead City, NC 28557, (800) 786-6962 or (919) 726-8148. For information about the rest of the state, contact the North Carolina Division of Travel and Tourism, 430 North Salisbury St., Raleigh, NC 27611, (800) VISIT NC or (919) 733-4171.